Truck Beds for Sale

Three numbers decide it: bed length, bed width, and cab-to-axle. Cab-to-axle is the tape measurement from the back of your cab to the center of the rear axle.

Short-bed single-rear-wheel pickups take a 7-foot bed, 84 inches wide. Long-bed single-wheels take an 8'6" bed at the same width. Duallys take 8'6" by 97 inches, wide enough to cover the rear fenders. Cab-to-axle on pickups runs roughly 38 to 58 inches by make and year. The bed has to match that number, which is why it's the first thing we ask for.

Cab-and-chassis trucks are their own case. No box ever came on one. The bed gets sized straight off the cab-to-axle number, so an 84-inch CA takes an 11-foot bed.

Measure before you call: cab to axle center, outside frame width, single or dual rear wheels. Read us those three numbers and we'll tell you over the phone which beds on the lot bolt onto your truck.

Steel takes what a work truck dishes out. Chain hooks cinched down hard. A pallet dragged across the deck. Ten years of feed sacks and fence posts. A scratch is a touch-up, not a problem.

Aluminum is the other answer. It can't rust, which matters if the truck lives where roads get salted or the bed stays wet. The weight you don't carry in the bed comes back to you as payload. It costs more up front, and it goes on the same financing the steel beds do.

So tell us how the truck lives. Salt and standing water point you to aluminum.

One thing a new bed never changes is your truck's ratings. The payload number on the door-jamb sticker still governs. Read us that number and we'll steer you to a bed whose own weight leaves you room to work.

That's half the reason these beds sell. A gooseneck ball sits in the bed floor just ahead of the rear axle. That's right where the engineers want the hitch weight. A flat deck also gives the trailer's neck room to swing on tight turns, where pickup box rails sit in the way.

Many of the beds on our lots come with the gooseneck setup already in the floor. Hitch prep can be ordered on a bed that doesn't have it.

The bed carries the ball. The truck still does the pulling. Read us the tow and payload numbers off your door-jamb sticker, plus what you're pulling, and we'll tell you whether the combination works before you buy either piece.

Putting a worn truck back to work is one of the cheaper fixes in this business. Beds start at $2,595 and run to $10,995.

Set that against what a body shop wants to straighten and repaint a rusted box. The flatbed usually comes out ahead, and you end up with a more useful truck.

Financing is available on the same straight terms as our trailers. The note's real numbers go on paper, with its total cost spelled out. No payment games.

Two things ride on top of any bed's cash price. Installation is its own line item, and tax, title, and the doc fee shift by state. So ask for the out-the-door figure with install included when you call. That's the number to plan around.

Simpler than most people expect. The old box unbolts from the frame and comes off in one piece. The new bed bolts to the same frame rails. The lights wire into the truck's harness, and the gooseneck hitch goes in if the bed has one.

Call the store with your truck's year, make, and wheel setup before you drive over. They'll confirm the bed, the fit, and the install ahead of time.

If the size your truck needs isn't sitting on a lot today, we'll tell you what's inbound. New beds arrive regularly, and one can be ordered built to your measurements.